Giant Scale Lanier Stinger
The Stinger's 84" wingspan is 7 feet of flying fun!
With its 84" wingspan, our super popular, IMAA-legal Stinger kit is built for giant-scale fun. Super-strong "no-joint" plywood fuse is built-up on the bottom and features an ABS turtledeck above the wing. The giant foam wing (nearly 1,600 square inches of wing area!) features a fully-symmetrical airfoil, full-length ailerons for added maneuverability, and balsa spars for added strength. Complete plans, instructions and preformed landing gear included; 4-channel radio and 1.2 - 4.2 cu. in. engine required.
Assembly of the kit progressed rapidly, and the plans were followed with only a few exceptions (noted below). The foam wing cores are covered with balsa sheeting at both the leading and trailing edges. Between these sheetings are cap strips that serve no purpose other then to support the wing covering (Monocote). The wing halves are joined with a hefty plywood spar, balsa top and bottom, then fiberglassed over the center section. I recommend putting more of a bull-nose on the leading edge of the wing than is called for in the plans. Flying proved to be too sensitive in the pitch attitude until I rounded the leading edge.
The tail grouping is made up of 3/8" square balsa sticks - no sheeting. Hardwood dowels are used at all flying wire attach points and at the control horn points. The plans call for using quick links, bending them at a 45 degree angle, then enlarging the hole to fit 2-56 hardware. These are then soldered to piano wire. There are a couple of tricks to making this happen. First, don't try to bend a sharp 45 degree angle. Just make it a nice gradual bend, otherwise the tempered steel will break. To drill the holes, use a sharp .085" drill bit and turn it slowly in your drill press, using lots of oil. You'll only be able to drill a few at a time without resharpening the bit. Also, instead of using the aluminum joiner under the fuselage to connect the flying wires together, I made a joiner out of fiberglass. This breaks up the diamond shaped flying wires electrically that can act as an RF shield to your radio antenna VERY IMPORTANT!
The plans didnt call for any fiberglass in the firewall area. I have heard from other Stinger builders that in some cases the engine actually departed company from the fuselage! Not interested in this happening to mine, I glassed the nose pretty well. I also had to make a slight modification to the firewall as I used the pitts-style Slimline muffler. Overall, the G-62 fit very nicely on this plane.
I highly recommend the wheel pant modification that was developed to insure a much more secure mounting of the wheel pants!
For the radio gear, I used my already proven JR XF-622. I put a ¼ scale servo on each aileron as recommended in the plans, and a ¼ scale servo at each elevator half. Another ¼ scale servo powered the rudder, and a standard servo for the throttle. The rudder and elevator servos were mounted in the tail. All this was powered by two separate battery packs and two switches. Redundancy in this area is a small price to pay for the added insurance. I also kept a 10" distance between the engine and all radio gear to minimize interference, and used nyrod for the throttle pushrod.
I found that the ailerons needed a 1/16" balsa sheet laminated to them in order to get the same thickness as the wings trailing edge. This is no big deal and Im sure has no actual affect on flying characteristics; I just like the look of the ailerons matching the wing. I used the recommended Robart hinge points throughout. I applied a bit of Vaseline to the hinge joint, then epoxied one end in and let it set up. When cured, I applied 30 minute epoxy to the other ends and installed the surfaces, taking care to remove all excess epoxy in the joint.
Since my color scheme was black with silver trim, I wanted to canopy to blend in and used navy blue Rit dye. For those of you unfamiliar with this, just immerse the canopy in the dye at a temperature of about 150 degrees F. until the desired tint is achieved.
This is a very smooth flying plane with no known bad habits. It is much more graceful than the smaller birds I had been flying (this was my first stab at giant scale). The G-62, as promised by other modelers, is extremely reliable and forgiving to variables in carburetor settings, fuel tank location, etc.
All in all, this is a great plane to ease into giant scale modeling!
UPDATE - 10/2
So, yes, the finished plane wont look as nice as the original Stinger, but this is a test to compare performance and flight characteristics with a significant weight reduction.
Ill use ProBond Polyurethane for the adhesive. If youve ever used this stuff, you know its the only way to sheet foam wings! No spars, no dihedral brace, no nothing. This wing will not have the notch in the center leading edge. Im expecting a much stronger wing at the same weight as the old one. See the Wing Update below. Balsa was purchased from Dynamic Balsa and was of very high quality. Straight and light. I didnt go with contest balsa, but what they sent me was fine for my purposes.
Drilling the 2 ½" diameter holes in the wing cores resulted in a weight reduction of 12 oz. Each wing core weighed 12 oz prior to coring and 6 oz after. Not bad. Drilling was performed on a drill press with very nice results and a VERY MESSY SHOP!
WING UPDATE 11/15
TAIL FEATHERS UPDATE 11/29
COVERING IN PROGRESS 12/2
TEST FLIGHT 1/1/2000
The C&H Jump Start works GREAT on the G-62. It's so nice getting rid of that heavy spring starter and crankshaft drag!
I'll probably throw in a B&B smoke system one of these days for something new to try. This new plane certainly has the carrying capacity for the added weight now!